Cordless or Corded Dremel Tool?

It seems like more and more Dremel Rotary Tools and Dremel Multi Tools are going cordless. So, that brings about a choice – do you want to buy a cordless Dremel or buy one with a cord?

Let me give you a quick example of why I don’t like cordless power tools. Not long ago I was putting up a new fence around my house. Down here in Texas we all have wooden fences around our yards. I had a nice Porter Cable cordless drill that I was using to drive screws through the wooden fence and into the posts. These were long wood screws and took quite a bit of torque and power to put in each screw.

With a cordless drill, it takes a lot of life out of the battery to do that work. I was constantly having to stop and let the battery recharge. I had 2 batteries, but even with alternating, the demand was greater than the power.

Since then, I have replaced that drill with a Milwaukee power drill with a cord. I have constant power. There aren’t too many places I cannot go with it. I have about 350 feet of power cords here at home, so I’m good. I won’t ever buy a cordless drill again.

However, I do like my cordless Dremel Rotary Tool. It does the work for me just fine. Since I am not needing the same power and torque, the battery life tends to last longer. I like it much better than my old corded Dremel because the cord always seemed to get in the way.

The one big piece of advice I can give you is this – if you are going to work cordless, buy a spare battery. It will save you from losing your temper and saying words that you don’t want your kids to repeat. Sooner or later your battery will die while doing a project. Having a backup battery to switch out with, and then start recharging the other will be more than enough to complete almost any project.

The one exception may be the Dremel Multi Tool, which can require some extra power as it rips through material. It’s a toss up between cordless and corded. If you’re going to use it often, you may even consider two spare batteries.

The last piece of advice is to make sure you use a Lithium battery for longer life. Read some of the reviews on Amazon to see what others are saying about the life of the batteries.

Using Your Dremel Tool To Remove Striped Screws

Here is another way that you can use your Dremel Rotary Tool.  This last weekend I was removing a handicap handle that I had installed on a wall while my mother was here visiting. I attached these handles to the wall near a step in our house so she would have a grip to stabilize herself in going up and down into the living room. I’m sure you’ve seen them before.

These handles come with six 2 inch wood screws so that you can take them deep into the stud or frame that you are mounting them to. Afterall, they need to bear quite a bit of weight, potentially.

When it came time to remove the screws, two of them did not want to come out very easily. I ended up stripping the screw head, and was not able to remove them. I didn’t want this handle on the wall permanently, so I read on a forum where someone had used their Dremel Tool to remove the screw. Here is what I did.

  1. Use the cutting wheel attachement.
  2. Very carefully, cut a slot across the head of the screw so that you can use a “Standard” screwdriver to insert into the slot you just cut.
  3. Make sure the slot you cut is deep enough to grip the screw, but not too deep so that you weaken the head of the screw.
  4. Use a standard screw driver to begin turning the screw. I recommend this over a power screw driver so you don’t break off the head.
  5. Then, finish up with an electric screw driver or drill.

It worked great on both screws. I didn’t need any other Dremel Tool Accessory, just a simple cutting wheel, used on high speed, and gently cut the slot.

Once again, the Dremel Rotary tool is quite versitle and useful in so many different functions. It may not be the tool you use every day, but it is the tool that you will need quite often when no other tool on your workbench has the ability to do.

Re-grouting Tips And Advice

Whenever tile and grout displays wear and tear, house owners in many cases are tempted to change it out completely. But with a little work, you’ll save around 80% of the cost of replacing and also have your tile looking like new by simply re-grouting!

Re-grouting is the procedure that you remove the current mortar fill in between a pre-existing tile installment. Re-grouting can be carried out with success after a little patience along with determination.

One thing you need to do is normally determine whether you want to re-grout or not by identifying if you’ve got sanded or non-sanded grout. This is significant since re-grouting should exclusively be done to non-sanded grout joints. There are other types of renovation for sanded grout joints which can be more efficient such as grout re-coloring.

Very first, for the grout removal process you will need:

  • Dremel multi tool will get rid of previous grout fairly fast. You might like to practice before you decide to jump right in.
  • Dremel Rotary Tool with tile cutting bit (This application is perfect for ends, edges and also touch-ups)
  • Wet or Dry Vac
  • Razor for removing out of date caulking.
  • Phosphoric Acid Cleaner
  • Scrub brush

Following, you will need tools for your grouting process:

  • 2 Buckets (One intended for mixing grout and one for water)
  • Grout Float
  • Grout Sponge
  • Soft Towels to clean, very last dusting and sealing

Furthermore, for your personal safety you will need safety eye protection, dust masks, ear plugs as well as chemical resistant rubberized cleaning gloves. This certainly will complete the arsenal for your project.

With the Dremel Multi Tool, work with areas about 2ft. by 2ft. applying very long even strokes to eliminate the grout, letting your machine complete the task. Try to remember, you simply ought to remove about 1/16th inch. Don’t try to go any more or you can simply make issues much harder for yourself. Leave a good inch from all corners and sides. It is advisable to clear the sides and corners with a normal Dremel tool using the cutting bit.

Fill up your spray bottle about 25% with phosphoric acid and 75% using water and again work in places about 2ft. by 2ft. beginning at the bottom of the project if it is up and down. Squirt your acid solution and scrub the tile with your scrub brush and water to take off soap scum. Rinse out thoroughly with water and also suck up with the wet or dry vac then dry. You’re now prepared to grout.

Mix the grout inside one of the buckets to a pliable paste and distribute on the tile and grout consistently with your grout float. After that take your grout float and hold in a forty five degree angle to cut out the extra mortar and then fill the grout joints. When you are done grouting, return and wipe smooth using your grout sponge and water rinsing the cloth or sponge out regularly. Do not leave an excessive amount of water in the sponge. Don’t get worried about the light haze it will buff away using the sponge.

When you’re done wiping down allow it to dry for three hours then buff with soft towels. Let the project set at the very least 4-5 hrs and seal your tile. When you are all finished, caulk any kind of parts necessary such as base of sink, bottom of tub surround or base of stall shower.

Dremel Tools and Model Railroading

Have you ever experienced a train engine repeatedly halt and also reduce speed in the exact same spot on the track? There are various steps you can take to boost the model railroad with the use of numerous very simple items throughout the house, and buying and / or borrowing a Dremel rotary tool.

The loco could need servicing, as well as it might signal a track as well as electrical wiring problem. You might want to clear that area of track. A train locomotive really needs clear electrical pickup.

The trouble could very well correspond with filthy drivers and also pick up wheels. A number of model railroaders have a large paper towel plus apply a little WD-40. Other folks in your hobby would likely damp the paper towel using iso-propyl or other clean alcohol. They will place that on your powered tracks, work the loco onto the towel for 10-seconds to twenty seconds holding it as the small wheels rotate. They then change the wheel placements to wash the others.

Others work with a rotary tool like a Dremel. They prefer a soft brush wheel moist with alcohol, and while holding the engine upside down, they will attach the power train’s wheels on the track using a number of wires along with clips (or only touch the engine’s wheels on the cables). They will work the engine when having it in one hand and operate the rotary tool with the tires with the other hand.

Definitely if you have an issue with train engines halting or perhaps chugging erratically along, you have got to look for “dead spots”, a negative track connector, or it might also end up being adhesive or even dust coming from scenery disrupting the power circulation.

If problem remains it could be a signal that the track may be too large for the scale of power pack and also transformer. Nonetheless, be aware that voltage drop is not continually defeated by using a even bigger transformer. Multiple connections for the track may be required.

A more powerful transformer or power pack may help. One of the most likely solution is to make use of significantly less tracks, or maybe run a number of sets of wiring.

IMPORTANT: Any time running 2 sets of wire connections, don’t cross your wires. Tag or color code wire connections in order that every rail is connected to only One post in your transformer or power pack.

It can be incredibly frustrating when trains operate slowly or even do not work whatsoever. It’s just a situation of staying calm as well as looking at and removing the many possible reasons one by one. Do not become too discouraged – treat it as a challenge, as you will be very thrilled with yourself once you eventually repair the problem and the layout has returned to working as usual. Take pleasure in your own interest.

Designing Fishing Lures Using a Dremel

Creating fishing lures that actually work good enough to be able to hook the same big fish your pricey brand name lure does is certainly quite easy, and also pleasurable also. To create a lure needs no exclusive equipment, and all of the different components you’ll need for lure making are readily available from online lower price sellers such as amazon and ebay. These online retailers also provide guides offered which usually go into additional information on how to make fishing lures.

The first step in designing your self-made fishing lure is almost always to figure out what type of lure you will create. I recently found one of the simplest lures to create is a general Rapala, or Rebel minnow-type lure. This submarine shaped lure is not difficult, smaller, easy to form, even with a common pocket knife. Using one of you own lures as the model, or a image from a fishing lure publication can help make certain overall design, and also hook positioning right.

Now that you have selected the type of lure you’re going to make, its time to decide on the wood. You may need a piece of wood around 4 inches long and 1 1/2 in . square. I use wood from an old cedar tree in my yard. Its normally water resistant and holds eye hooks properly. A lot of lure makers though, want basswood. It’s a sensible choice because it resists splits, is not difficult to carve, and retains paint nicely. It is possible to just as very easily find a block of lumber from your local lumberyard or even hardware store. Smaller blocks of wood termed blanks are also available in hobby stores.

Your following stage in creating a lure is usually to rough shape the piece of wood. If you own a small jig saw you could knock out this step pretty speedily. If not, a very good hobby knife, wood carvers knife, or even a razor-sharp pocket knife can certainly be utilized regarding this step. During this step you are only wanting to get off the sharpened corners, and work the wood into a submarine contour.

Now that you have the basic contour, begin smoothing the wood by using some heavy sandpaper. Use a vice to keep your work secure while sanding. Progress throughout many grits to attain a smooth finish. A drum sander attached to a Dremel rotary tool might speed this step.

Attempt to make the lure as shaped as possible, but do not be concerned in case it is a little lopsided. At times the lures that are a little lopsided appeal to additional fish. I imagine its irregular motion copies the actions of a damaged fish better.

Now that you have created a blank, we may put our eye screws for the hooks. Check out a lure very similar to your one you are making to be able to determine where to your position the eye screws. Once you have marked the spots, use a finishing nail and tap in the pilot holes. Use a set of needle nose pliers for you to turn in your eye screws.

For a lip you will want the 1/8″ piece of plexiglass or even some other plastic material. In order to install your lip or bill, again use your style in order to decide approx . location. Use a small coping saw or rotary bit on a Dremel to shape your own bill. As soon as it is cut out, place a sheet of sand paper upon a work surface as well as move the actual bill over the actual area of the sand paper until finally even.

With the lure sanded smooth it is time to decorate. Despite the fact that quite a few really serious lure makers prefer vinyl paint, it is fine to use a high-quality acrylic enamel, and a good quality clear layer for a finish. Both may bought on line or at your local auto parts retailer.

The very last step will be to apply a bit of Super Glue for you to secure the lip within a slot, put in the eye screws, split rings, in addition to hooks.

I am certain that as soon as you really feel the enjoyment in addition to full satisfaction of reeling in that lunker on a lure you constructed, you definitely will be absolutely hooked.